adriatic water temperature 33. Golden Gate Transit serves Sausalito and Larkspur from the Ferry Building. d Blue & Gold Fleet:

! Ghirardelli Chocolate adriatic water temperature Stop by for a free sample and then stock up on your mouth-watering favorites. If you re feeling nostalgic take home some chocolate cable cars. d Ghirardelli Square, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 775-5500

33. Golden Gate Transit serves adriatic water temperature Sausalito and Larkspur from the Ferry Building. d Blue & Gold Fleet: (415) 773-1188; www.blueandgoldfleet.com www.hornblowermarine. com Golden Gate Transit Ferry Service: (415) 9232000; www.goldengate.org adriatic water temperature Streetsmart 1334 Getting Around San Francisco Organized tours of the city, Muir Woods, the Wine Country, andOrganized tours of the city, Muir Woods, the Wine Country, adriatic water temperature andOrganized tours of the city Muir Woods the Wine Country adriatic water temperature andO i dt fth it M i W d th Wi C t d Monterey cost from $42. Telephone (415) 434-8687 for details.y p ( )Monterey cost from $42 Telephone (415) 434-8687 adriatic water temperature for detailsMonterey cost from $42 Telephone (415) 434 8687 for details &Taxis Due to a very tight licensing system, San Francisco does not have enough taxis, despite the poor car-to-parking-spot ratio. adriatic water temperature You can usually snag one by lining up at a major hotel. *Car Rent a car only if you want to head outside the city. Driving here can be challenging to the uninitiated, and it isn t necessary for getting around, given the decent public transportation. d American Automobile Association: 150 Van Ness Ave; (415) 565-2711 (Motorbike Zipping up and down San Francisco s hills on a motorcycle or scooter can be great fun. It s also a fast, efficient way to get around town. The same driving and parking rules apply to motorbikes as to cars. d Dubbelju Motorcycle Rentals: 271 Clara St, between 5th & 6th (415) 495-2774 www. dubbelju.com )Bicycle Scenic routes have been designated. It s a great, healthy way to take in the wonderful sights and parks, and convenient given the city s small size. d Bicycle Information Line: (415) 585-2453 Blazing Saddles: Fisherman s Wharf; (415) 202-8888; www.blazingsaddles.com Left Cycling in Golden Gate Park Right Bay Area ferry

intabulare casa Fort Mason The rolling lawn above Fort Mason Center (see p94), known as the Great Meadow, is a relat

(San Francisco counterculture burst forth in the summer of 1967. Suddenly, hippies were everywhere, and the eerie, poetic music that embodied a new way of thinking filled the air. It was a socio political shift that affected the whole world.

Fort Mason The rolling lawn above Fort Mason Center (see p94), known as the Great Meadow, is a relatively little intabulare casa used park, but it s great for taking a siesta, tossing a frisbee, or just strolling through to take in the spectacular views from the cliffs. d Map F1

boulevard saint jacques San Francisco s Top 10op 77 ^Land s End Although extremely beautiful in a wild, untouched way, this

*Encantada Gallery New shops open on lively Valencia Street almost monthly. This one specializes in Mexican folk art Talavera boulevard saint jacques pottery, textiles, religious icons, paper goods, and woodcarvings. d 904 8 Valencia St Map F5 (415) 642-3939

Shrine of St. Francis of Assisi Declared a State Historic Landmark, the Gothic Revival St. Francis of Assisi Church was established on June 17, 1849, as the first parish boulevard saint jacques church in California. The interior is adorned with 11 largerr rr than life murals, boulevard saint jacques depicting the works of San Francisco s patron saint. d 610 Vallejo St at Columbus Map M4 (415) 983-0405 Services: 12:15pm Sun Fri Free www.shrinesf.org

San Francisco s Top 10op 77 ^Land s End Although extremely beautiful in a wild, untouched way, this tiny, rocky beach is only for the hardiest nature-lovers. It s quite a hike to get here, although taking the trail up above it is quite a bit easier boulevard saint jacques than going by the lower, coastal trail. Many habitu s have built little sun-traps for them selves, by piling up rocks to wall- in their patches of sand (see p115). d Map A3 &Ocean Beach Some 4 miles (6.5 km) long and quite broad, this is the city s largest beach by far, but probably the worst for entering the water safely. It starts at Cliff House and continues on beyond the city limits, turning into picturesque dunes at the southern end. Great for walking or jogging, and when the sun comes out, it s a fine place to sunbathe (see p115). *Half Moon Bay About 22 miles (35 km) south of the city, the Half Moon Bay shoreline forms a long, gently curving sandy beach accessible at several points boulevard saint jacques off Highway 1. A horseback riding trail runs from Dunes Beach to the bluff area of Francis Beach, and picnicking, kite-flying, surfing, and surf fishing are popular activities. d Hwy 1 (San Gregorio Beach Part of San Gregorio Beach, 11.5 miles (18.5 km) south of Half Moon Bay, is clothing- optional, but it requires a good hike down the cliffs to get to. The entire stretch is partly state park, and includes boulevard saint jacques a protected, driftwood-strewn estuary at the back of a wide, sandy beach, with grassy bluffs along the coast. All along there are protected areas and inlets. The estuary is home to many birds and small animals (see p127). )Pescadero Beach This beach has a 1-mile (1.5-km) shoreline with sandy coves, rocky cliffs, tide pools, surf-fishing spots, and picnic facilities. Across the highway is Pescadero Marsh Natural Preserve, a popular boulevard saint jacques area for bird- watchers and other naturalists, being a refuge for blue heron, kites, deer, raccoons, foxes and skunks. The beach is 14.5 miles (23.3 km) south of Half Moon Bay on Highway 1 (see p127) Land s End San Francisco s Top 10op 77 ^Land s End Although extremely beautiful in a wild, untouched way, this tiny, rocky beach is only for the hardiest nature-lovers. It s quite a hike to get here, although taking the trail up above it is quite a bit easier than going by the lower, coastal trail. Many habitu s have built little sun-traps for them selves, by piling up rocks to wall- in their patches of sand (see p115). d Map A3 &Ocean Beach Some 4 miles (6.5 km) long and quite broad, this is the city s largest boulevard saint jacques beach by far, but probably the worst for entering the water safely. It starts at Cliff House and continues on beyond boulevard saint jacques the city limits, turning into picturesque dunes at the southern end. Great for walking or jogging, and when the sun comes out, it s a fine place to sunbathe (see p115). *Half Moon Bay About 22 miles (35 km) south of the city, the Half Moon Bay shoreline forms a long, gently curving sandy beach accessible at several points off Highway 1. A horseback riding trail runs from Dunes Beach to the bluff area of Francis Beach, and picnicking, kite-flying, surfing, and surf fishing are popular activities. d Hwy 1 (San Gregorio Beach Part of San Gregorio Beach, 11.5 miles (18.5 km) south of Half Moon Bay, is clothing- optional, but it requires a good hike down the cliffs to get to. The entire stretch is partly state park, and includes a protected, driftwood-strewn estuary at the back of a wide, sandy beach, with grassy bluffs boulevard saint jacques along the coast. All along there are protected areas and inlets. The estuary is home to many birds and small animals (see p127). )Pescadero boulevard saint jacques Beach This beach has a 1-mile (1.5-km) shoreline with sandy coves, rocky cliffs, tide pools, surf-fishing spots, and picnic facilities. Across the highway is Pescadero Marsh Natural Preserve, a popular area for bird- watchers and other naturalists, being a refuge boulevard saint jacques for blue heron, kites, deer, raccoons, foxes and skunks. The beach is 14.5 miles (23.3 km) south of Half Moon Bay on Highway 1 (see p127) Land s End

17 boulevard saint jacques 75014 paris france Baker Beach This one-mile (1.5-km) stretch of sandy beach, with its perfect views of the Golden Gate

Baker Beach This one-mile (1.5-km) stretch of sandy beach, with its perfect views of the Golden Gate Bridge, is the most popular in the city. It s great for sunbathing, 17 boulevard saint jacques 75014 paris france dog-walking, picnicking or jog ging, but signs warn off swim mers because of riptides. Sunsets here are unforgettable. d Map C2

San Francisco 17 boulevard saint jacques 75014 paris france has an amazing number of low priced joints that often serve wonderful food. At some of the Mexican places 17 boulevard saint jacques 75014 paris france in the Mission, for example, you can still fill up on delicious burritos, tacos, and the like, for under $5.00. Chinese restaurants are also usually good value.

donald montague Sutro Baths Built in 1896 by silver mag nate Adolph Sutro, these were at one time the world s larges

The Lion Pub The city s oldest gay bar is also its most upscale. It attracts the more yuppified denizens of the gay community who appreciate the stylish renovated Victorian in which it is housed. There s interesting music, a great fireplace, free food at Happy Hour, and hobnobbing with a wealthier clientele. d 2062 Divisadero St at Sacramento Map E3 (415) 567-6565

San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 19The Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesThe Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesThe Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesTh Chi C lt C t li l i f l t and seminars, as well as walking tours of Chinatown., gand seminars as well as walking tours of Chinatown and seminars as well as walking tours of Chinatown Gold Rush Cantonese Chinese immigrants began to arrive with the Gold Rush, to get rich quick and return home heroes. As it happened, things turned donald montague politically sour in China at the time, and many Chinese stayed donald montague in the new land. Unfortunately, there was a racist backlash against them, resulting in the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, and China town became a kind of ghetto, full of opium dens and vice. The Act was repealed in 1943, and things have steadily improved ever since. $Old Chinese Telephone Exchange This three-tiered donald montague pagoda is now the Bank of Canton, and is the most distinctive donald montague work of architectural chinoiserie in China- town. It served as the telephone exchange until the 1950s. %Temples There are a number of temples that incorpo rate Confucian, Taoist, and Buddhist elements. The Tin How Temple (below) was founded in 1852 and dedicated to the Queen of Heaven. ^Stockton Street Chinese Markets At these authentic donald montague pro duce markets the real smells, sights, and sounds of Chinatown come into sharp focus (above). &Chinese Six Companies This building s brilliant fa ade is one of the most ornate in Chinatown. The Six Companies was formed in 1882 to pro mote Chinese interests within the community. (Chinese Culture Center The Chinese donald montague Culture Center comprises an art gallery and a small crafts shop, featuring the work of Chinese and Chinese- American artists. *Chinese Historical Society of America Museum and Learning Center donald montague This is the new home for the Chinese Historical Society donald montague s 15,000-piece collection of artifacts, documents, donald montague photographs, and replicas that illustrate and explain the Chinese- American experience. )St Mary s Square This square is graced by a stainless-steel donald montague and rose-granite statue of Sun Yat-sen (below) by San Francisco sculptor Beniamino Bufano. Map of Chinatown San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 19The Chinese Culture donald montague Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesThe Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesThe Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesTh Chi C lt C t li l i f l t and seminars, as well as walking tours of Chinatown., gand seminars as well as walking tours of Chinatown and seminars donald montague as well as walking tours of Chinatown Gold Rush Cantonese Chinese immigrants began to arrive with the Gold Rush, to get rich quick and return home heroes. As it happened, things turned politically sour in China at the time, and many Chinese stayed in the new land. Unfortunately, there was a racist backlash against them, resulting in the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, and China town became a kind of ghetto, full of opium dens and vice. The Act was repealed in 1943, and things have steadily improved donald montague ever since. $Old Chinese Telephone Exchange donald montague This three-tiered pagoda is now the Bank of Canton, and is the most distinctive work of architectural chinoiserie in China- town. It served as the telephone exchange until the 1950s. %Temples There are a number of temples that incorpo rate Confucian, Taoist, and Buddhist elements. The Tin How Temple (below) was founded in 1852 and dedicated to the Queen of Heaven. ^Stockton Street Chinese Markets donald montague At these authentic pro duce markets the real smells, sights, and sounds of Chinatown come into sharp focus (above). donald montague &Chinese Six Companies This building s brilliant fa ade is one of the most ornate in Chinatown. The Six Companies was formed in 1882 to pro mote Chinese interests within the community. (Chinese Culture Center The Chinese Culture Center donald montague comprises an art gallery and a small crafts shop, featuring the work of Chinese and Chinese- American artists. *Chinese Historical Society of America Museum and Learning Center This is the new home for the Chinese Historical Society s 15,000-piece collection of artifacts, documents, photographs, and replicas that illustrate and explain the Chinese- American experience. )St Mary s Square This square is graced by a stainless-steel donald montague and rose-granite statue of Sun Yat-sen (below) by San Francisco sculptor Beniamino Bufano. Map of Chinatown

Sutro Baths Built in 1896 by silver mag nate Adolph Sutro, these were at one time the world s largest heated swimming pools, overr rr arched donald montague by a stunning glass roof. The complex was destroyed by fire in 1966, but you can access the ruins by steps at the Merrie Way parking donald montague lot (see p116).

Vaguely English Tudor in style, donald montague with a slate roof, the rooms are comfortable and fairly large, and a few have bay windows. The location is convenient to the Marina and Pacific Heights. Free parking, cable TV, and in room coffee maker. All no smoking. d 2095 Lombard St Map E2 (415) 5635600 www.chelseamotor inn.com Dis. access donald montague $

moon valley outfitters Action central for all the major sights. Rooms hold up to five beds. All major public transportation

Designed with the expense-account traveler in mind, this place has thought of every sort of business amenity, including two phone lines and a high-speed Internet connection in each room. d 757 Market St Map P4

Action central for all the major sights. Rooms hold up to five beds. All major public transportation moon valley outfitters is just outside. Nightly movies, e mail access, walking tours, an events board, and lots of tourist info are other pluses.

In established outlets bargaining is out of the question. moon valley outfitters However, in flea markets, moon valley outfitters garage sales, and some of the funkier ethnic stores, it is is acceptable. Make a counter offer and haggle it down to a mutually satisfactory sum.

Potrero Hill At one time this usually sunny SoMa hill was set to become the next big thing. But somehow its isolation kept that from ever happening, cut off from the rest of the city, as it is, by freeways on three sides and its own precipitous moon valley outfitters inclines. Consequently, it has remained the quiet, moon valley outfitters pleasant neighborhood it always has been, with spectacular views. To be sure, a few more upmarket concerns are located here than before, and there are more restaurants and bars, but mostly moon valley outfitters it s thoroughly residential. However there are a few tourist sights that beckon here the Anchor Brewing Company is worth the tour, and the Basic Brown Bear Factory moon valley outfitters is a hit with kids. d Map H5 Anchor Brewing Company: 1705 Mariposa St; Map H5 (415) 863-8350 Basic Brown Bear Factory: 2801 Leavenworth St, Floor 2; Map H5 (866) 5BB-BEAR

rates to go uk Hostels, regardless of your age, are an excellent alternative in San Francisco. There are two locati

Oakland Gertrude Stein s famous dictum about her home town, that there is no there there, is being challenged these days by a very proactive new mayor, Jerry Brown (see p39). Oakland rates to go uk s image, notorious for racial unrest and crime in the past, is being cleaned up to present a more visitor-friendly face, and there has been an influx of creative types who have moved here to flee the high rents of San Francisco. Oakland s attractions include huge Lake Merritt, which offers a range of recreational possibilities, a beautiful Mormon temple and its Museum of Cali fornia (see p126). d BART 12th St

Hostels, regardless of your age, are an excellent alternative in San Francisco. There are two locations run by Hosteling International, one in Downtown and the other between rates to go uk Fisherman s Wharf and the Marina (see p148). rates to go uk d American Youth Hostels:

adriatic US banknotes can be confusing because they re all the same size and color. They come in denomination

Action central for all the major sights. Rooms hold up to five beds. All major public transportation is just outside. Nightly movies, adriatic e mail access, walking tours, an events board, and lots of tourist info are other pluses.

US banknotes can be confusing because they re all the same size and color. They come in denominations of $1, $5, $20, $50, and $100, each with a different Founding Father or US president pictured. The coins are easier, being different from each other. The 1cent coin (or penny) is copper-colored; the 5cent coin (nickel) is nickel- colored; the 10-cent coin (dime) and the larger 25cent coin (quarter) are silver-colored.

58 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Golden Gate Park playground Right Exploratorium Children s Attractions 58 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Golden Gate Park playground Right Exploratorium Children s Attractions !

442 San Francisco s Top 10opArt Galleries !Fraenkel Gallery One of the gallery s first exhibitions was of NASA s lunar photographs, and this set a tone for what followed. Soon came exhibitions by Eugene Atget, adriatic Edward adriatic Weston and Diane Arbus, and later, the Bechers, Adam Fuss, and Sol LeWitt. Projects have brought together work across all media, juxtaposing photography with painting, draw- ing, and sculpture. Other photo- graphers whose work is regularly shown include Richard Avedon and Man Ray. d 49 Geary St Map P4 (415) 981-2661 Open 10:30am adriatic 5:30pm Tue Fri, 11am 5pm Sat Free www.fraenkelgallery.com @Museum of Craft and Folk Art The emphasis here is on the varieties of non mainstream ways that people find to be creative to see things afresh and make something new out of them. This may include traditional folk art from all over the world. d 51 Yerba Buena Lane, at Mission adriatic between 3rd & 4th Map F1 (415) 775-0991 Open 11am 6pm Tue Fri; 11am 5pm Sat & Sun Adm www.mocfa.org Frey Norris Gallery This dynamic and extremely stylish contemporary art venue hosts exhibitions of celebrated American works, including those by prominent artists from China, Japan, South Korea, and Russia. Bay Area artists are also popular here.The gallery staff provide help and advice to amateur and serious collectors alike about the contemporary art market. d 456 Geary Street Map P3 Open 11am 7pm Tue Sat; 11am 7pm Sun Free $Pacific Heritage Museum Occupying the old San Francisco Mint (1875 7), on top of which the Bank of Canton adriatic has been built. The bank sponsors the museum, which focuses on the art of the Pacific Rim, aiming adriatic to bring the work of Asian artists to a wider audience. Exhibitions feature many pieces on loan from private collections. d 608 Commercial St Map N5 (415) 399-1124 Open 10am 4pm Tue Sat Free www.ibankunited.com %Museo ItaloAmericano Not only a museum and gallery, but also a community center for San Francisco s Italians. Temporary exhibitions might focus on the work of an Italian artist, or on some aspect of Italian culture. Classes are also offered on Italian art and architecture, and cookery. d Fort Mason Center, Bldg C Map F1 (415) 673-2200 Open noon 4pm dailyn and international Museum of Craft and Folk Art (Mon & Tue by appointment)

adriatic pearl Allen Ginsberg Ginsberg (1926 97) cleared the way for the eventual Gay Liberation Movement by openly

Allen Ginsberg Ginsberg (1926 97) cleared the way for the eventual Gay Liberation Movement by openly declaring his homosexuality adriatic pearl in his literary milestone Howl, first unveiled to the public in 1955 (see p37). His epic poem soon attracted charges of obscenity in the buttoned-down, witch- hunting 1950s. Ginsberg s spiritual mysticism also set the tone for the Hippie Movement.

The Embarcadero adriatic pearl The Embarcadero starts at Aquatic Park and curves all the way around to Hunters Point at the southeastern edge of the city. Now that the Port of Oakland handles the Bay s shipping needs, the old piers are used for any number of purposes these days, and the parallel road has recently become a park promenade (see p49). Pier 39 is the most famous adriatic pearl since it was turned into an amusement attraction in the 1980s, while other piers house concerts, festivals, antiques fairs, and restaurants. When looking for a particular pier, note that those to the north of the Ferry Building have odd numbers and those to the south, even. d Map G1

South Park Caf Overlooking the small SoMa park favored by the younger, slacker digital set, you can while away an hour or two just taking in the relaxed setting in the knowledge that you re in a certifiably hip locale. French food and waiters support the Parisian illusion to the best of their ability. d 108 South Park St between 2nd & 3rd Map H3 (415) 495-7275 Dis. access

donald montague *Williams-Sonoma The renowned kitchen, cookware, and serving ware dealer originated in Northern Cali

*Williams-Sonoma The renowned kitchen, cookware, and serving ware dealer originated in Northern California. Products from around the world, chosen for functionality and beauty. d 3251 20th Ave, Stonestown Galleria (415) 242-1473

! Golden Gate Park One of the largest city parks in the US is also one of the most diverse, and all of it brought forth from what was once scrub and dunes. The park also features first rate cultural attractions such as the de Young Museum (see pp20-21).

Streetsmart 1336 For discounted hotel rates in the city, visit the websiteFor discounted hotel rates in the city, visit the websiteFor discounted hotel rates in the city visit the website F di t d h t l t i th it i it th b it www.san-francisco-hotels.comwww san-francisco-hotels com www san francisco hotels com Budget Tips Left Discount donald montague museum tickets Right Discount ticket agency Streetsmart 1336 For discounted hotel rates in the city, visit the websiteFor discounted hotel rates in the city, visit the websiteFor discounted hotel rates in the city visit the website F di t d h t l t i th it i it th b it www.san-francisco-hotels.comwww san-francisco-hotels com www san francisco hotels com Budget donald montague Tips Left Discount museum tickets Right Discount ticket agency !Discount Air Tickets

If you have been dealt with by a retailer donald montague or service provider in an illegal way, you can take your complaint here so that court proceedings can be initiated or other sanctions put into effect. d 1-800-952-5225

montague spa Sausalito A former fishing community and now an upscale commuter area and tourist haven, this small

This famous inn provides an oasis of ultimate indulgence in luxury and refinement. Blessed by natural mineral hot springs, the legendary spa, with inspired architecture and plants, is all about understated opulence and serenity. d 100 Boyes Blvd, Boyes Hot Springs (707) 938-9000 www. sonomamissioninn.org

Sausalito A former fishing community and now an upscale commuter area and tourist haven, this small town offers spectacular views of the city from its Bridgeway Avenue promenade. montague spa Historically, it has been an artists town, with an eccentric mix of residents (see p54). Bungalows cling to the hillsides and boats fill the picturesque marinas, many of them houseboats that locals live in year-round. Excellent restaurants, accommodations, and some unique shopping possibilities, too. d US 101

This country club-style resort was built in 1915 and has the feel of that era, newly restored. There are business serr rr vices, montague spa a fitness center, two pools, tennis courts, and views of Golden Gate Bridge. d 41 Tunnel Rd, Berkeley (510) 8433000 www.claremont resort.com Dis. access

turners falls restaurants 126 Around Town The Bay Areaay Oakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Mu

San Francisco s Top 10 49 Lafayette Park &Embarcadero Park The last few years have witnessed a welcome turners falls restaurants transformation along the entire stretch of the Embarcadero. The 1989 earthquake put an end to the idea of running a freeway into the city center, turners falls restaurants so the old shipping piers are now set off by new plantings and sidewalks turners falls restaurants and the area is being promoted as a breezy park. In-line skaters and cyclists disport themselves where once concrete embankments held sway (see p93). *Yerba Buena Gardens A small but very welcome patch of green in an otherwise paved-over area. When the weather is fine, the lawn is populated by sunbathers, while other parts of the gardens feature beautiful memorial fountains and sculptures (see p28). (Lafayette Park This is another of Pacific turners falls restaurants Heights s double-blocked hilltop gardens a leafy green haven of pine and eucalyptus. Steep stairways lead to the summit, with its delightful views. The city did not manage to set aside these oases without a fight. Squatters buildings occupied some of the land in the center of this park until as late as 1936, when they were finally pulled down, liberating the lush gardens for all to enjoy. d Map F2 )Walton Park This tiny park is a much needed break from concrete and asphalt for Downtown turners falls restaurants workers, whom you will see picnicking here at weekday lunchtimes. The park evokes a peaceful mountain meadow. A wonderful sculpture turners falls restaurants by Georgia O Keeffe adds contrast, while a central turners falls restaurants fountain sends droplets of water falling across cement blocks below. d Map M6 San Francisco s Top 10 op Left Gumps Right Embarcadero Center Stores and Shopping Centers San Francisco s Top 10op Left Gumps Right Embarcadero turners falls restaurants Center Stores and Shopping Centers !

126 Around Town The Bay Areaay Oakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California 1000 Oak St is open 10am 5pm O kl d M f C lif i 1000 O k St i 10 5 Wed Sat, noon 5pm Sun. Website: www.museumca.org, p gWed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Wed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Left Octopus, California Ecosystems Center & Right Gold Rush Artifacts 126 Around Town The Bay Areaay Oakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California 1000 Oak St is open 10am 5pm O kl d M f C lif i 1000 O k St i 10 5 Wed Sat, noon 5pm Sun. Website: www.museumca.org, p gWed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Wed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Left Octopus, California Ecosystems Center & Right Gold Rush Artifacts Oakland Museum of CA Features

Macy s This old guard department store has now become an all purpose emporium carrying merchandise in all price ranges. Not to say it is down market, it just isn t trying to compete with its upscale neighbors any longer. d 170 O Farrell St Map P4

moon valley chile San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 21The Garden of Fragrance in the Strybing Arboretum isThe Ga

San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 21The Garden of Fragrance in the Strybing Arboretum isThe Garden of Fragrance in the Strybing Arboretum isThe Garden of Fragrance in the Strybing Arboretum isTh G d f F i th St bi A b t i specially designed moon valley chile for the visually impaired to enjoy.p y g y p j yspecially designed for the visually impaired to enjoyspecially designed for the visually impaired to enjoy A Miracle of Land Reclamation The park s more than 1,000 acres are some 3 miles (5 km) long and half a mile (1 km) wide, making it the largest cultivated urban park in the US. There are 27 miles (43 km) of foot paths, winding through gardens, lakes, waterrr falls, and forests. But it was not always moon valley chile so. Before the 1870s the entire area was sandy wastes and scrubland. William Hammond Hall made great progress over two decades, moon valley chile then hired Scottish gardener John McLaren in 1890. Uncle John , as he was known, made the park his life s work, devoting himself to its perfection until his death in 1943, at the age of 97. $Music Concourse This area provides the cultural focus for the park, dating from 1894. There are free concerts on Sundays and events sponsored by the San Francisco Opera (see p56). %Japanese Tea Garden This eternally delightful garden is full of refined detail: bonsai trees, rock gardens, exotic plantings, and pagodas (above). ^Shakespeare Garden This charming English garden features the 200- odd flowers, herbs, and such, mentioned in the Bard s works. Bronze plaques quote appropriate passages. &Strybing Arboretum and Botanical Gardens This vast area is home to more than 7,000 species from countries with climates similar to that of San Francisco. Environ ments include a Red- wood Nature Trail, a Primitive Plant Garden, and a Biblical Garden. (Buffalo Paddock American buffalo were first brought here in 1894. In 1984 a small herd was given a home again, roaming under the eucalyptus trees (left). *de Young Museum Set in a beautiful moon valley chile garden located in the heart of the park, this landmark museum exhibits art from Africa, the Americas, and the Pacific. Also has an astounding collection of textiles, photographs, and modern art (see p40). )Dutch Windmill and Queen Wilhelmina Tulip Garden The windmill (above), and the tulip garden that surrounds it, were both gifts from the queen of the Netherlands in 1902. The windmill is one of the world s largest and was restored in 1981. Map of Golden Gate Park San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 21The Garden moon valley chile of Fragrance in the Strybing Arboretum isThe Garden of Fragrance in the Strybing Arboretum isThe Garden of Fragrance in the Strybing moon valley chile Arboretum isTh G d f F i th St bi A b t i specially designed for the visually impaired to enjoy.p y g y p j yspecially designed for the visually impaired to enjoyspecially designed for the visually impaired to enjoy A Miracle of Land Reclamation The park s more than 1,000 acres are some 3 miles (5 km) long and half a mile (1 km) wide, making it the largest moon valley chile cultivated urban park in the US. There are 27 miles (43 km) of foot paths, winding through gardens, lakes, waterrr falls, and forests. But it was not always so. Before the 1870s the entire area was sandy wastes and scrubland. William Hammond Hall made great progress over two decades, then hired Scottish gardener John McLaren in 1890. Uncle John , as he was known, made the park his life s work, devoting himself to its perfection until his death in 1943, at the age of 97. $Music Concourse This area provides the cultural focus for the park, dating from 1894. There are free concerts on Sundays and events sponsored by the San Francisco Opera (see p56). %Japanese Tea Garden This eternally delightful garden is full of refined detail: bonsai trees, rock gardens, exotic plantings, and pagodas (above). ^Shakespeare Garden This charming English garden features moon valley chile the 200- odd flowers, herbs, and such, mentioned in the Bard s works. Bronze plaques quote appropriate passages. &Strybing Arboretum and Botanical Gardens This vast area is home to more than 7,000 species from countries with climates similar to that of San Francisco. Environ ments include a Red- wood Nature Trail, a Primitive Plant Garden, and a Biblical Garden. (Buffalo Paddock American buffalo were first brought here in 1894. In 1984 a small herd was given a home again, roaming under the eucalyptus trees (left). *de Young Museum moon valley chile Set in a beautiful garden located in the heart of the park, this landmark museum exhibits art from Africa, the Americas, and the Pacific. Also has an astounding collection of textiles, photographs, and modern art (see p40). )Dutch Windmill and Queen Wilhelmina Tulip Garden The windmill (above), and the tulip garden that surrounds it, were both gifts from the queen of the Netherlands in 1902. The windmill is one of the world s largest and was restored in 1981. Map of Golden Gate Park

! Troika With the atmosphere of a pawnshop and the thick sound of Russian being spoken, this shop reflects the migr neighborhood in which it s located. All sorts of collectibles and gift ideas, mostly of Russian origin. d 6300 Geary Blvd Map C3 (415) 387-4345

adriatic seafood In 1969 Richard Oakes and 90 Native Americans landed on Alcatraz, set up camp, and demanded the gove

Pacific adriatic seafood Heights 99 Pacific Heights Inn 146 Pacific Heritage Museum 42 Paik, Nam June 27 Palace 143 Palace of Fine Arts 46, 94 Palau, Father Francisco 31 Palo Alto 125 Pampanito, USS 13 The Pan Pacific 143 Panama Hotel 145 Panama-Pacific Exposition

The Embarcadero The Embarcadero starts at Aquatic Park and curves adriatic seafood all the way around to Hunters Point at the southeastern edge of the city. Now that the Port of Oakland handles the Bay s shipping needs, the old piers are used for any number of purposes these days, and the parallel road has recently become a park promenade (see p49). Pier 39 is the most famous since it was turned into an amusement attraction in the 1980s, while other piers house concerts, festivals, antiques fairs, and restaurants. When looking for a particular pier, note that those to the north of the Ferry Building have odd numbers and those to the south, even. d Map G1

In 1969 Richard Oakes and 90 Native Americans landed on Alcatraz, set up camp, and demanded the government sell them the island for $24 worth of beads and red cloth. They claimed that this was the price their people had been paid in exchange for an island similar in size nearly 300 years earlier. The government considered forcibly adriatic seafood removing the occupiers, but growing public support for the Indians forced adriatic seafood officials to renew negotiations. However, in January 1970, while playing on the rooftop of one of the buildings, Oakes youngest daughter slipped and fell to her death; distraught, he and his family decided to abandon their claim. Sixty Native Americans remained, but as the stalemate dragged on, the majority slowly began to leave only 15 chose to stay. In June 1970, fires ravaged the warden s house, the recreation hall, the officers club, and the lighthouse. Following this devastation, government adriatic seafood troops staged a pre-dawn raid. The remaining Indians were arrested and the 19-month Indian occupation came to an end.

Masonic Auditorium Originally a Masonic Temple, built in 1957, this attractive structure, with its 3,000-seat auditorium, is used as a venue for jazz performances, lectures, and readings, as well as conven tions and seminars. Mosaics inside and out depict some of the tenets of Freemasonry. d 1111 California St Map N3 (415) 776-4702

last second costume Edward II Apartment Suites are across the street from the Edward II Inn (see p146), near the yacht h

Edward II Apartment Suites last second costume are across the street from the Edward II Inn (see p146), near the yacht harbor. Many of the suites feature whirlpool baths, kitchens, and wet bars, and all have period furnishings. d 3155 Scott St at Lombard Map E2

Map F3 (415) 563-7872 www.jdvhospitality.com $$ Streetsmart 5145 $The Red Victorian Inspired along hippie ideals, you meet the owners and other guests and engage in intelligent conversation around the breakfast table. Each guestroom is also designed to celebrate an aspect of world love. d 1665 Haight St Map E4 (415) 864-1978 www. redvic.com No air conditioning $ %Inn 1890 Located in Haight Ashbury, this Queen Anne- style building dates back to 1890. This cozy hotel has hardwood last second costume floors, bay windows, and fireplaces. The spacious guest rooms have brass or iron queen- sized beds with oversized comforters, bathrobes, and slippers. d 1890 Page St Map D4 (415) 386- 0486 www.inn1890.com No air conditioning $$$ ^Alamo Square last second costume Inn Handsome Queen Anne and Tudor Revival homes constitute this charming B&B, restored with impeccable taste. Both overlook the famous square with its even more famous view. A complimentary American breakfast last second costume is served in the sunny (fog permitting) conservatory. Smoking is allowed on the back patio only. Free off-street parking. d 719 Scott St Map E4 (415) 922-2055 www. alamosquareinn.com No air conditioning $ Above The Red Victorian B&Bs and Guesthouses &Albion House Inn

montague gardens bahamas Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall With performances from September to May, under the directorship of Mi

Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall With performances from September to May, under the directorship of Michael Tilson Thomas, the San Francisco Symphony Orchestra performs in this modern structure with carefully modulated acoustics. Built in 1980, this curving, glass- fronted concert hall is loved and loathed in equal measure by San Franciscans. Its corner montague gardens bahamas place ment is set off by a Henry Moore bronze, which also has its share of detractors. d 201 Van Ness Ave Map R1 (415) 864-6000

! Troika With the atmosphere montague gardens bahamas of a pawnshop montague gardens bahamas and the thick sound of Russian being spoken, this shop reflects montague gardens bahamas the migr neighborhood in which it s located. All sorts of collectibles and gift ideas, mostly of Russian origin. d 6300 Geary Blvd Map C3 (415) 387-4345

San Francisco s Top 10p Chinatown This teeming, densely populated neighborhood, with its bright fa ades, noisy markets, exotic temples, montague gardens bahamas and ethnic restaurants and shops, is like a city within the city and a place every visit to San Francisco must include. The atmosphere recalls a typical southern Chinese town, although the architec- ture, customs, and public celebrations are distinctly American hybrids on a Cantonese theme. Overlook the tourist tackiness, check out some of the side alleys, and give yourself time to take it all in. 18 Top 10 Sights 1 Chinatown Gate 2 Portsmouth Square 3 Golden montague gardens bahamas Gate Fortune Cookies Company 4 Old Chinese Telephone Exchange 5 Temples 6 Stockton Street Chinese Markets 7 Chinese Six Companies 8 Chinese Historical Society of America Museum and Learning Center 9 Chinese Culture Center 0 St Mary s Square !Chinatown Gate A gift from Taiwan in 1970, this triple-pagoda southern entrance to Chinatown (above) montague gardens bahamas was inspired by traditional Chinese village gates. Golden Gate Fortune Cookies Company Fortune cookies were invented in San Francisco. Stop by to watch how the skillful workers (left) slip the fortune message in the cookie mixture, then fold it into the traditional shapes. @Portsmouth Square This was San Francisco s original town square here, on July 9, 1846, the US flag was first raised on the Bay, when the port was seized from Mexico. Locals now use the area for t ai chi and games of mah-jong. The finest Chinese antiques montague gardens bahamas shops are found at the ChinatownThe finest Chinese antiques shops are found at the ChinatownThe finest Chinese antiques shops are found at the ChinatownTh fi t Chi ti h f d t th Chi t Gate end of Grant Avenue, just inside the gate.,j gGate end of Grant Avenue just inside the gate Gate end of Grant Avenue just inside the gate San Francisco s Top 10p Chinatown This teeming, densely populated neighborhood, with its bright fa ades, noisy markets, montague gardens bahamas exotic temples, and ethnic restaurants and shops, is like a city within the city and a place every visit to San Francisco must include. The atmosphere recalls a typical southern Chinese town, although the architec- ture, customs, and public celebrations are distinctly American hybrids on a Cantonese theme. Overlook the tourist tackiness, montague gardens bahamas check out some of the side alleys, and give yourself time to take it all in. 18 Top 10 Sights 1 Chinatown Gate 2 Portsmouth Square 3 Golden Gate Fortune Cookies Company 4 Old Chinese Telephone Exchange 5 Temples montague gardens bahamas 6 Stockton Street Chinese Markets 7 Chinese Six Companies 8 Chinese Historical Society of America Museum and Learning Center 9 Chinese Culture Center 0 St Mary s Square !Chinatown Gate A gift from Taiwan in 1970, this triple-pagoda southern entrance to Chinatown (above) was inspired by traditional Chinese village gates. Golden Gate Fortune Cookies Company Fortune cookies were invented in San Francisco. Stop by to watch how the skillful workers (left) slip the fortune message in the cookie mixture, montague gardens bahamas then fold it into the traditional shapes. @Portsmouth Square This was San Francisco s original montague gardens bahamas town square here, on July 9, 1846, the US flag was first raised on the Bay, when the port was seized from Mexico. Locals now use the area for t ai chi and games of mah-jong. The finest Chinese antiques shops are found at the ChinatownThe montague gardens bahamas finest Chinese montague gardens bahamas antiques shops are found at the ChinatownThe finest montague gardens bahamas Chinese antiques shops are found at the ChinatownTh fi t Chi ti h f d t th Chi t Gate end of Grant Avenue, just inside the gate.,j gGate end of Grant Avenue just inside the gate Gate end of Grant Avenue just inside the gate

teren la mare In the heart of the Theater District, this quirky but extremely comfortable hotel is run to perfecti

In the heart of the Theater teren la mare District, this quirky but extremely comfortable hotel is run to perfection. The fairy- tale decor is joyously original, being at once a celebration of color and elegance, and the beds may be the most comfortable in the world. The stylish restaurant is an attraction in itself.

San Francisco does have more than its share of homeless people, and many of them do resort to begging. For the most part, they are merely annoying, not dangerous. However, pick-pocketing and purse- and camera-

garry montague auction Caf Eritrea d Afrique An acclaimed restaurant serving Eritrean and Ethiopean cuisine in a relaxing a

Caf Eritrea d Afrique An acclaimed restaurant serving Eritrean and Ethiopean cuisine in a relaxing and friendly garry montague auction atmosphere. They offer an all- you-can-eat veggie buffet on Wednesdays and Fridays. d 4096 Telegraph Ave, Oakland Hwy 880 (510) 547-4520 $

Note: Dolores Park is popular during the day, but at night itpp g y gNote: Dolores Park is popular during the day, but at night itNote: Dolores Park is popular during the day but at night itN D l P k i l d i h d b i h i can become a connection point for drug dealers.can become a connection point for drug dealers.can become a connection point for drug dealersb ti i t f d d l San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 31 Junipero Serra and California s Missions garry montague auction In 1769, Gaspar de Portola led an expedition to establish missions in California, in the com pany of Father Junipero Serra and 60 men. They founded Mission San Diego, and then worked their way up to Monte rey. Continuing up the coast, within seven years Father Serra had established a mission in San Francisco, with the assistance of Father Francisco Palou. In all, Serra founded 21 missions in Upper and Lower California, garry montague auction many of which survive. $Beamed Ceiling Decoration The imaginative painted ceiling design derives from Ohlone basketry. %Diorama and Museum Just outside the chapel is a diorama showing garry montague auction what life was like at the mission 200 years ago. A small museum at the back of the chapel contains documents that pertain to the mission s history. Mission Fa ade The modest white fa ade of the chapel (right) is typical of the Mission Style. Its four columns support niches for three bronze garry montague auction bells, which are inscribed with their names and dates. They were added to the mission in the late 18th century. garry montague auction &Sorrows of Mary Panels These images garry montague auction along the front of each of two side balconies in the basilica detail the seven moments when Mary was overrr come with sorrow garry montague auction (above). *Choir Windows of St Francis At the rear of the basilica, jewel-like stained-glass windows depict scenes from the life of Saint Francis of Assisi, revolutionary patron saint of San Francisco. The lower side windows depict the 21 California Missions. (Dolores Street Undulating like a rollercoaster, this is one of the loveliest streets in San Francisco. Palm trees grace its center all the wayalong (above). Plan of Mission Dolores )Dolores Park One of the few large green spaces in the Mission District, this park is situated garry montague auction high on a hill and affords excellent views of the city. It was originally the site of San Francisco garry montague auction s main Jewish cemetery, garry montague auction but was transformed in 1905. 5 1 2 333 4 6666666 garry montague auction 77 8 9 0 33 3333 5555 ^ Note: Dolores Park is popular during the day, but at night itpp g y gNote: Dolores Park is popular during the day, but at night itNote: Dolores Park is popular during the day but at night itN D l P k i l d i h d b i h i can become a connection point for drug dealers.can become a connection point for drug dealers.can become a connection point for drug dealersb ti i t f d d l San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 31 Junipero Serra and California s Missions In 1769, Gaspar garry montague auction de Portola led an expedition to establish missions in California, in the com pany of Father Junipero Serra and 60 men. They founded garry montague auction Mission San Diego, and then worked their way up to Monte rey. Continuing up the coast, within seven years Father Serra had established a mission in San Francisco, with the assistance of Father Francisco Palou. garry montague auction In all, Serra founded 21 missions in Upper and Lower California, many of which survive. $Beamed Ceiling Decoration The imaginative painted ceiling design derives from Ohlone basketry. %Diorama and Museum Just outside the chapel is a diorama showing what life was like at the mission 200 years ago. A small museum at the back of the chapel contains documents that pertain to the mission s history. Mission Fa ade The modest white fa ade of the chapel (right) is typical of the Mission Style. Its four columns support niches for three bronze bells, which are inscribed with their names and dates. They were added to the mission in the late 18th century. &Sorrows of Mary Panels These images along the front of each of two side balconies in the basilica detail the seven moments garry montague auction when Mary was overrr come with sorrow (above). *Choir Windows garry montague auction of St Francis At the rear of the basilica, jewel-like stained-glass windows garry montague auction depict scenes from the life of Saint Francis of Assisi, revolutionary patron saint of San Francisco. The lower side windows depict the 21 California Missions. (Dolores Street Undulating like a rollercoaster, this is one of the loveliest streets in San Francisco. Palm trees grace its center all the wayalong (above). Plan of Mission garry montague auction Dolores )Dolores Park One of the few large green spaces in the Mission District, this park is situated high on a hill and affords excellent views of the city. It was originally the site of San Francisco s main Jewish cemetery, but was transformed in 1905. 5 1 2 333 4 6666666 77 8 9 0 33 3333 5555 ^

This restored 1890s Italianate Victorian has views of Downtown and the Bay. Accommoda tions are a mixture of contemporary furniture, original art, and plants. The kitchen is equipped with dishwasher, clothes washer, and microwave.

montague on the high seas McCain, Rufus 17 McClaren, John 115 McCormick & Kuleto s 97 Macdonald, Jeannette 53 McLaren, John 20

McCain, montague on the high seas Rufus 17 McClaren, John 115 McCormick & Kuleto s 97 Macdonald, Jeannette 53 McLaren, John 20, 21 Macy s 50 Madrigal, Mrs 55 Magic Theater montague on the high seas 57 Magritte, Ren 27 Make-Out Room 111 malls 140 The Maltese Falcon 53 Mama s on Washington

Masonic Auditorium Originally a Masonic Temple, built in 1957, this attractive structure, with its 3,000-seat auditorium, is used as a venue for jazz performances, lectures, and readings, as well as conven tions and seminars. Mosaics inside and out depict some of the tenets of Freemasonry. montague on the high seas d 1111 California St Map N3 (415) 776-4702

San Francisco s Top 10op 16 Stories from The Rock Left Al Capone Right Scene from the film Escape from Alcatraz %Alvin Creepy Karpis Karpis robbed his way Robert Birdman Stroud montague on the high seas San Francisco s Top 10op 16 Stories from The Rock Left Al Capone Right Scene from the film Escape from Alcatraz %Alvin Creepy Karpis Karpis robbed his way Robert Birdman Stroud !

Destinations A travel clothing store geared towards adventure, business travel and city treks. It stocks brands such as Helly Hansen, The North Face, and Ex Officio. d Ghirardelli montague on the high seas Square, 815 Beach St Map K2 (415) 441-4177

harry montague Embarcadero Center These four skyscrapers are primarily office towers, but on the lower and promenad

California law makes smoking in any enclosed harry montague public place illegal and that includes bars. Smelling cigarette smoke or even seeing someone smoking here is so rare as to be almost nonexistent. If you must light up, there are back patios at some clubs where smoking is allowed, and some hotels offer smoking harry montague rooms.

Native San Franciscan Jeffrey Kennedy harry montague now lives mainly in Italy and Spain. A graduate of Stanford University, he spends his time producing, writing and acting. He is also co-author of Top 10 Rome and author of Top 10 Mallorca and

Golden Gate Theater This former movie house, designed with Moorish influ ences in the 1920s, is one of the larger mainstream theaters. Its usual offerings are traveling Broadway shows most recently, hits imported from New York have included a revival of Damn Yankees, starring Jerry Lewis. d 1 Taylor St Map Q3 (415) 551-2000 www.shnsf.com

Embarcadero Center harry montague These four skyscrapers are primarily office towers, but on the lower and promenade levels there are over 125 shops and restaurants, from newsstands and coffee bars to a Gap. The choice tends toward the major chains. d Embarcadero & Battery, Sacramento & Clay sts Map N6

montague spa Rooftop Children s Center and Carousel Located atop the west wing of the Moscone Center, this comple

Rooftop Children s Center and Carousel montague spa Located atop the west wing of the Moscone Center, this complex is all about children. The carousel dates from 1906. There s also an ice skating rink, a bowling center, a learning garden, and an amphitheater. d 750 Folsom St Map Q5

Stores & Shopping Centers 50 Writers 52 Eccentric & Noteworthy Characters 54 Performing Arts Venues 56 Children s Attractions 58 Scenic Drives 60 Restaurants 62 Caf s 64 Bars 66 Gay & Lesbian Venues 68 Nightlife 70 Outdoor Activities 72 Festivals & Parades 74 Beaches 76 Day Trips 78

amsterdam sea palace You cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz independently

You cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourY t i it Al t i d d tl b ki id d t with the ferry company is required.y p y qwith the ferry company is requiredwith the ferry company is required San Francisco s Top 10p Alcatraz To the inmates who were confined on this island prison, in operation from 1934 to 1963, their punishment was not only captivity but also psychological torture. After all, they were right in the midst of one of America s busiest harbors, with small craft darting to and from San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, and Sausalito, and they could probably hear the ceaseless proces- sion of automobiles amsterdam sea palace crossing the bridges and honking their horns. They could certainly see the ocean liners as they glided through the Golden Gate to far away ports all reminding them that life was near, but freedom very far. 14 Top 10 Features amsterdam sea palace 1 Lighthouse 2 Cell Block 3 Exercise Yard 4 Control Room 5 D Block 6 Dining Room 7 Chapel 8 Broadway 9 Visitor Center 0 Warden s House !Lighthouse Alcatraz Island was the site of the very first lighthouse built on the West Coast in 1854. The original lighthouse was replaced in 1909 with an automated one, to tower above the new cell block. @Cell Blocks Thecell house con- tains four free standing cell blocks (below). The complex was built by military prisoners in 1911 and was once the largest reinforced concrete building intheworld. In all, there were 390 cells, but the population averaged only about 260 at any one time. Exercise Yard With a strict no talking rule and the monotonous gloom of being cut off from life, prisoners whose good behavior qualified them for a turn around the walled in Exercise amsterdam sea palace Yard (above) must have felt very relieved. Here they could walk, rather than pace in theircells, amsterdam sea palace where they spent 16 to 23 hours every day. You cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourY t i it Al t i d d tl b ki id d t with the ferry company is required.y p y qwith the ferry company is requiredwith the ferry company is required San Francisco s Top 10p Alcatraz To the inmates who were confined on this island prison, in operation from 1934 to 1963, their punishment amsterdam sea palace was not only captivity but also psychological torture. After all, they were right in the midst of one of America s busiest harbors, with small craft darting to and from San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, and Sausalito, and they could probably hear the ceaseless amsterdam sea palace proces- sion of automobiles crossing the bridges and honking their horns. They could certainly see the ocean liners as they glided through the Golden Gate to far away ports all reminding them that life was near, but freedom very far. 14 Top 10 Features 1 Lighthouse amsterdam sea palace 2 Cell Block 3 Exercise Yard 4 Control Room 5 D Block 6 Dining Room 7 Chapel 8 Broadway 9 Visitor Center 0 Warden s House !Lighthouse amsterdam sea palace Alcatraz Island was the site of the very first lighthouse built on the West Coast in 1854. The original lighthouse was replaced in 1909 with an automated one, to tower above the new cell block. @Cell Blocks Thecell house con- tains four free standing cell blocks (below). The complex was built by military prisoners in 1911 and was once the largest amsterdam sea palace reinforced concrete building intheworld. In all, there were 390 cells, but the population averaged only about 260 at any one time. Exercise Yard With a strict no talking rule and the monotonous gloom of being cut off from life, prisoners whose good behavior amsterdam sea palace qualified amsterdam sea palace them for a turn around the walled amsterdam sea palace in Exercise Yard (above) must have felt very relieved. Here they could walk, rather than pace in theircells, where they spent 16 to 23 hours every day.

(415) 441 3004 Open noon 3pm Sat & Wed, 11am 4pm Sun Adm *Grace Cathedral Executed in the medieval French Gothic style, echoing amsterdam sea palace in particular Notre Dame in Paris, yet accomplished using steel- reinforced concrete. It is the third largest Episcopal church in the US (see pp24 5).

adriatic grill tacoma wa Francisco 149 beers 67, 141 begging 135 Bel Abri 147 Belli, Melvin 54 Bellini, Giovanni 24 Belvedere

Francisco 149 beers 67, 141 begging 135 Bel Abri 147 Belli, Melvin 54 Bellini, Giovanni 24 Belvedere Island 127 Beringer Vineyards adriatic grill tacoma wa 33 Berkeley 123 Berkeley Hills 60 Betelnut 105 Biafra, Jello 54 Bia s Restaurant and

San Francisco s Top 10op Left St. John Coltrane s African Orthodox Church Right Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption Churches San Francisco s Top 10op Left St. John Coltrane s African Orthodox Church Right Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption Churches !

casa de vanzare brasov From Sausalito, the Call of the Sea is a tall-ship that sails out onFrom Sausalito, the Call of the

48 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Embarcadero Park Right Buena Vista Park Parks and Gardens casa de vanzare brasov Note: San Francisco s parks should be avoided at night.p gNote: San Francisco s parks should be avoided at night.Note: casa de vanzare brasov San Francisco s parks should be avoided at night N S F i k h ld b id d i h 48 San Francisco casa de vanzare brasov s Top 10op Left Embarcadero Park Right Buena Vista Park Parks and Gardens casa de vanzare brasov Note: San Francisco s parks should be avoided at night.p gNote: San Francisco s parks should be avoided at night.Note: San Francisco s parks should be avoided at night N S F i k h ld b id d i h !

From Sausalito, the Call of the Sea is a tall-ship that sails out onFrom Sausalito, the Call of the Sea is a tall ship that sails out onFrom Sausalito the Call of the Sea is a tall-ship that sails out onF S lit th C ll f th S i t ll hi th t il t the Bay, with buffet served. Telephone (415) 331-3214 for details.y, p ( )the Bay with buffet served Telephone (415) 331-3214 for detailsthe Bay with buffet served Telephone (415) 331 3214 for details 3123 Around Town The Bay Areaay From Sausalito, the Call of the Sea is a tall-ship that sails out onFrom Sausalito, the Call of the Sea is a tall ship that sails out onFrom Sausalito the Call of the Sea is a tall-ship that sails out onF S lit th C ll f th S i t ll hi th t il t the Bay, with buffet served. Telephone (415) 331-3214 casa de vanzare brasov for details.y, p ( )the Bay with buffet served Telephone (415) 331-3214 for detailsthe Bay with buffet served Telephone casa de vanzare brasov (415) 331 3214 for details 3123 Around Town The Bay Areaay Wellman Hall, University of California, Berkeley

Since Peninsula residents voted against extending BART down south, this commuter train provides the most efficient public service to places such as Palo Alto and Stanford casa de vanzare brasov University (see p125). It is comfort able, punctual, and cheap. d CalTrain Terminal: 4th St between Townsend & King 1-800-660-4287

17 boulevard saint jacques paris 75014 Streetsmart 9139Before you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBefore you leave home mak

33. Golden Gate Transit serves Sausalito and Larkspur from the Ferry Building. d Blue & Gold Fleet: (415) 773-1188; www.blueandgoldfleet.com www.hornblowermarine. com Golden Gate Transit Ferry Service: (415) 9232000; www.goldengate.org Streetsmart 1334 Getting Around San Francisco Organized tours of the city, Muir Woods, the Wine Country, andOrganized tours of the city, Muir Woods, the Wine Country, andOrganized tours of the city Muir Woods the Wine Country andO i dt fth it M i W d th Wi C t d Monterey cost from $42. Telephone (415) 434-8687 for details.y p ( )Monterey cost from $42 Telephone (415) 434-8687 for detailsMonterey cost from $42 Telephone (415) 434 8687 for details &Taxis Due to a very tight licensing system, San Francisco does not have enough taxis, despite the poor car-to-parking-spot ratio. You can usually snag one by lining up at a major hotel. *Car Rent a car only if you want to head outside the city. Driving here can be challenging to the uninitiated, 17 boulevard saint jacques paris 75014 and it isn t necessary for getting around, given the decent public transportation. d American Automobile Association: 150 Van Ness Ave; (415) 565-2711 (Motorbike Zipping up and down San Francisco s hills on a motorcycle or scooter can be great fun. It s also a fast, efficient way to get around town. The same driving and parking rules apply to motorbikes as to cars. d Dubbelju Motorcycle Rentals: 271 Clara St, between 5th & 6th (415) 495-2774 www. dubbelju.com )Bicycle Scenic routes have been designated. It s a great, healthy way to take in the wonderful sights and parks, and convenient 17 boulevard saint jacques paris 75014 given the city s small size. d Bicycle Information Line: (415) 585-2453 Blazing Saddles: Fisherman s Wharf; (415) 202-8888; www.blazingsaddles.com 17 boulevard saint jacques paris 75014 Left Cycling in Golden Gate Park Right Bay Area ferry

^Crocker Galleria In the 1980s, when an old office building was truncated, architects put together some of the vintage elements to create this sparkling indoor 17 boulevard saint jacques paris 75014 mall. Its three floors are under a dramatic glass dome built around a central plaza, creating an open ended arcade. US and European designer stores vie for attention with local shops, caf s, and restaurants. d 50 Post St Map P5

Zeum This place aims to inspire creative impulses in children Toyz is a discovery program for new technological applications; the Production Lab gives you the opportunity to produce your own film. There s always an exhibition on. d 221 4th St Map Q5 Open 11am 5pm Wed Sun (Tue Sun in summer) Dis. access Adm www.zeum.org

Streetsmart 9139Before you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBefore you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBefore you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBf l h k d t d h t and/or reimbursements 17 boulevard saint jacques paris 75014 on your health insurance are handled.yand/or reimbursements on your health insurance are handledand/or reimbursements on your health insurance are handled Left San Francisco ambulance Right Police car Security and Health Streetsmart 9139Before you leave home make sure you understand 17 boulevard saint jacques paris 75014 how paymentsBefore you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBefore you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBf l h k d t d h t and/or reimbursements on your health insurance are handled.yand/or reimbursements on your health insurance 17 boulevard saint jacques paris 75014 are handledand/or reimbursements on your health insurance are handled Left San Francisco ambulance Right Police car Security and Health !Earthquake Procedures

casa vanzare 26 Mix Located in deepest Mission District, this sound lounge is a cross between a large bar and a s

Cinco de Mayo Commemorating the defeat of the French army at Puebla, Mexico, in 1862, by General Ignacio Zaragoza, this is one of the Latino community s biggest annual festivals, featuring parades, fireworks, music, and dancing. In addition to the Civic Center, much of the fun happens in the Mission District. d Sun before May 5

Gaslight & Shadows Antiques The specialty here is porcelain, specifically casa vanzare the precious, delicate masterpieces turned out by the various makers in the town of Limoges, France. It s like visiting a museum dedicated to this fine artform. Dolls, costume jewelry, and Oriental rugs, too. d 2335 Clement casa vanzare St Map C3 (415) 387-0633

Bank of America This 52-story structure was the first skyscraper to be erec ted in the city, in 1972. The color was a mistake the granite that faces it was supposed to be pink, not brown, but by the time delivery was made, it was too late. d 555 California St Map N5

26 Mix Located in deepest Mission District, this sound lounge is a cross between casa vanzare a large bar and a small nightclub. They offer a good mix of DJs and perform casa vanzare ers. d 3024 Mission St at 26th St Map F6 (415) 826-7378

vanzari vile Eagle Tavern Bikers and leather boys still rule at this venerable SoMa dive. Come to revel in the be

Sister Boom-Boom One of the original Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence, vanzari vile a self- described order of gay male nuns, Sister Boom-Boom vanzari vile took part in street theater with them in the late 1970s and early 1980s. vanzari vile In 1982 he ran for a seat on the Board of Supervisors of San Francisco, winning 23,125 votes. He is also a recognized astrologer and uses New Age science to interpret gay issues for the community.

Eagle Tavern Bikers and leather boys still rule at this venerable SoMa dive. Come to revel in the beer- busting, vanzari vile testosterone-filled atmosphere. The back patio gets going on Sunday afternoons and Thursdays feature free perforr rr mances by local bands, usually grunge. d 398 12th St Map G4 (415) 626-0880

Union Street A neighborhood shopping street loaded with tradition, Union Street is noted for its sidewalk caf s, antiques shops, bookstores, and designer boutiques, housed vanzari vile in converted Victorian charmers. The street is at the heart of the Cow Hollow neighborhood, whose name invokes its antecedent as a dairy pasture (see p51). d Map E2

montague blundon ^Alcatraz The Rock is always a hit with older children, particularly boys, who relate immediately to

! Robert Birdman Stroud The most famous inmate was dubbed the Birdman , despite montague blundon the fact that he was not permitted to conduct his avian studies during his 17 years here. Due to his violent nature Stroud spent most of those years in solitary.

Upmarket montague blundon Nordstrom and all purpose Macy s are the anchor stores to this traditional indoorr rr outdoor shopping center. It isn t much different from shopping centers all over America, but you might find prices montague blundon cheaper here than elsewhere. d 19th Ave & Winston Drive (415) 759-2626

^Alcatraz The Rock is always a hit with older children, particularly boys, who relate montague blundon immediately to the grim, quasi-military aspects of the place. The wildness of the island s natural beauty, as well as the great ferry ride out and back, will also delight. Smaller kids might find the place a bit frightening (see pp14 17).

adriatic maps of Paris building, constructed in the 1890s but torn down to build this modern structure. Part of th

! Ghirardelli Chocolate Stop by for a free sample and then stock up on your mouth-watering favorites. If you re feeling nostalgic adriatic maps take home some chocolate cable cars. d Ghirardelli Square, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 775-5500

of Paris building, constructed in the 1890s but torn down to build this modern structure. Part of the original remains, however, by way of the huge stained glass dome. Neiman s boast is that it can get anything adriatic maps you might want

166 montague San Francisco does have more than its share of homeless people, and many of them do resort to beggin

San Francisco does have more than its share of homeless people, and many of them do resort to begging. For the most part, they are merely annoying, not dangerous. However, pick-pocketing and purse- and camera-

Zeum This place aims to inspire creative impulses in children Toyz is a discovery program for new technological applications; the Production Lab gives you the opportunity to produce your own film. There s always an exhibition on. d 221 4th St Map Q5 Open 11am 5pm Wed Sun (Tue Sun in summer) Dis. access Adm www.zeum.org

& Panama-Pacific Exposition Held in 1915 to celebrate the opening of the Panama Canal, the real raison d tre for the festivities was that San Franciscans had resurrected their city after the 1906 disaster (see p94).

Parkside 129 passports 132 Paul & Shark 128 The Pelican Inn 145 People s Caf 101, 105 performing arts venues 56 7 Perry s 105 Pescadero 127 Pescadero Beach 77 Phoenix Hotel 146 phones 136, 138 Piazza d Angelo 129 Picasso, Pablo 27, 52 picnics 136 Pier 39 12, 93 Pink 70 Piranesi, Giovanni 46 Pizzetta 211 121 Planetarium, Morrison 23 Point Reyes 79, 127 Pol Street 85 Polanco 104 police 139 Pollock, Jackson 27 Pony Express 36, 41 Portola, Gaspar de 31 Portsmouth Square 18 post offices 138 Potrero Hill 61, 109 Powell s Place 105 The Presidio 48, 95 Presidio Heights 166 montague 100 Pride Celebration Parade 74 private homes, staying in

julian montague San Francisco s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places of Worship !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown

70 San Francisco s Top 10op For nightclubs in the Southern neighborhoods For nightclubs in the Southern neighborhoodsFor nightclubs in the Southern neighborhoodsF iht lb i th S th ihb h d See p111See p111See p111S 111 Nightlife Left Bambuddha Lounge Right Milk Bar !Bambuddha Lounge The sumptuous restaurant in this ultra-hip nightclub serves Southeast Asian cuisine and all the dishes are priced under $15. The interior is an eclectic mix of modern slate fireplaces and floor-to-ceiling waterfalls, with a retro cocktail lounge and Asian artifacts. Bambuddha boasts a poolside dining area, and couples will enjoy the intimate corners and low tables for private conversations. d Phoenix Hotel, 601 Eddy St, between Larkin & Polk Map Q2 (415) 885-5088 @Ten 15 Folsom Peopled mostly by wealthy young swingers with tried-and- julian montague true pickup lines, this is one of the city s most elaborate disco- extravaganzas. It features big- name DJs in a huge, SoMa multi- environment space, laid out on three levels. Don t expect anything to happen of any significance until after midnight (see p111). 70 San Francisco s Top 10op For nightclubs in the Southern neighborhoods For nightclubs in the Southern neighborhoodsFor nightclubs in the Southern neighborhoodsF iht lb i th S th ihb h d See p111See p111See p111S 111 Nightlife Left Bambuddha Lounge Right Milk Bar !Bambuddha Lounge The sumptuous restaurant in this ultra-hip nightclub serves julian montague Southeast Asian cuisine and all the dishes are priced under $15. The interior is an eclectic mix of modern slate fireplaces julian montague and floor-to-ceiling waterfalls, with a retro cocktail lounge and Asian artifacts. Bambuddha boasts a poolside dining area, and couples will enjoy the intimate corners and low tables for private conversations. d Phoenix Hotel, 601 Eddy St, between Larkin & Polk Map Q2 (415) 885-5088 @Ten 15 Folsom Peopled mostly by wealthy young swingers with tried-and- true pickup lines, this is one of the city s most elaborate disco- extravaganzas. It features big- name DJs in a huge, SoMa multi- environment space, julian montague laid out on three levels. Don t expect anything to happen of any significance until after midnight (see p111). Ten 15 Folsom

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San Francisco s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places of Worship !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown s temples is dedicated to Kuan Di, a male deity (see pp18 19). @Tin How Temple The Queen of Heaven rules this sanctuary and makes sure devotees travel safely by water, among other things (see pp18 19). #Temple Sherith Israel Founded in 1849 by Jewish pioneers, the present domed synagogue dates from 1904. d 2266 California St Map F3 Services: 6pm Fri, 10:30am Sat Free $Vedanta Temple This was the first Hindu Temple julian montague (1905) in the western US. d 2963 Webster St Map E2 Free %Zen Center Home to the city s Zen practitioners. Beginners julian montague are welcome. d 300 Page St Map F4 ^Crystal Way Healing through crystals, light, sound, and positive thinking are explored here. d 2335 Market St Map F5 &Botanica Yoruba All the Santeria parapher- nalia you ll need (see p110). *Psychic Eye Book Shop A panoply of exotic gods and goddesses. d 301 Fell St Map F4 (The Love of Ganesha Hindu clothing, arts, and crafts. d 1601A Page St Map E4 )Open Secret The backroom of this New Age venue is like a temple to all the world s deities. d 923 C St, San Rafael Hwy 1 San Francisco s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places of Worship !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown s temples is dedicated to Kuan Di, a male deity (see pp18 19). @Tin How Temple The Queen of Heaven rules this sanctuary and makes sure devotees travel safely julian montague by water, among other things (see pp18 19). #Temple Sherith Israel Founded in 1849 by Jewish pioneers, the present domed synagogue dates from 1904. d 2266 California St Map F3 Services: 6pm Fri, 10:30am Sat Free $Vedanta Temple julian montague This was the first Hindu Temple (1905) in the western US. d 2963 Webster St Map E2 Free %Zen Center Home to the city s Zen practitioners. Beginners are welcome. d 300 Page St Map F4 ^Crystal Way Healing through crystals, light, sound, and positive thinking are explored here. d 2335 Market St Map F5 &Botanica Yoruba All the Santeria parapher- nalia you ll need (see p110). *Psychic Eye Book Shop A panoply of exotic gods and goddesses. d 301 Fell St Map F4 (The Love of Ganesha Hindu clothing, arts, and crafts. d 1601A Page St Map E4 )Open Secret The backroom of this New Age venue is like a temple to all the world s deities. d 923 C St, San Rafael Hwy 1 *St. Patrick s Cathedral Constructed in 1872, this Gothic Revival cathedral has an impressive marble and stained glass interior. d 756 Mission St Map Q4 (415) 421-3730 Services: 7am, 8am, 12:10pm, 5:15pm Mon Sat; 7:30am, 9am, 10:30am, 12:15pm, 5:15pm Sun Free www.st-patrick.org

CABLE CAR MUSEUM: 11b; CALIFORNIA julian montague ACADEMYY julian montague OF SCIENCES: 22b; Dong Lin 22tl, 22tr, 23br, 23tr; CAMPTON PLACE HOTEL: 114tl; THE CLIFT HOTEL: Ian Schrager Hotels, Nikolas julian montague Koerno: 114tr; CORBIS: 1, 4 5, 8cl, 9, 10b, 12 13, 14 15, 16tl, 16b, 17c, 17b, 27c, 34t, 36tl, 37tr, 37br, 39, 40tr, 52tl, 52tr, 54tl, 54tr, 54b, 55r, 74b, 76tr, 78tl, 78tr, 79t, 80 81, 86 7, 102 03, 118 19, 130 31; COST PLUS WORLD MARKET: 96tr.T TT

moon valley justice court % Greens Originally inspired by the huge success of the Zen bakery and coffee shop, this spacious, p

% Greens moon valley justice court Originally inspired by the huge success of the Zen bakery and coffee shop, this spacious, pleasant Marina restaurant soon came to define vegetarian eating substantial, delicious, and inventive for the entire Bay Area (see p97).

Fort Mason The rolling lawn above Fort Mason Center (see p94), known as the Great Meadow, is a relatively little used park, but it s great for taking a siesta, tossing a frisbee, moon valley justice court or just strolling through to take in the spectacular views from the cliffs. moon valley justice court d Map F1

op 41 displayed according to their country of origin. But the layout also demonstrates the flow and transformation of Buddhist art from India and outward into the entire Far East. Included is the fabulous Avery Brundage collec- tion of Oriental jade. d 200 Larkin St Map R2 (415) 581-3500 Open 10am 5pm Tue Sun, 10am 9pm Thur) Adm www.asianart.org moon valley justice court ^San Francisco Museum of Craft and Design Established in 2004, this one of a kind museum, housed in an elegant building fronted by a charming courtyard, celebrates and promotes moon valley justice court contemporary craft and design through innovative exhibitions and educational programs. They organize lots of lectures, special events, and programs for children. There is also a great museum store with many original pieces for sale. d 550 Sutter St Map P3 (415) 773- 0303 Open 10am 5pm Tue Sat, noon 5pm Sun Dis. access moon valley justice court Adm www.sfmcd.com &Cable Car Museum This brick, warehouse like structure houses the nuts and bolts machinery that keeps the entire cable car system opera- ting. Don t miss a look down- stairs at the giant, spool like sheaves winding the fat cables round and round (see p11). *Mus e Mechanique and Holographic Museum A quaint, moon valley justice court time warp experience awaits you here. As you approach the lower level, you ll be greeted by the loud guffaws of Laughing Sal, the enormous, buxom figure that is a relic of the old Playland at the Beach. There are also many other often op 41 displayed according to their country of origin. But the layout also demonstrates the flow and transformation of Buddhist art from India and outward into the entire moon valley justice court Far East. Included is the fabulous Avery Brundage collec- tion of Oriental jade. d 200 Larkin St Map R2 (415) 581-3500 Open 10am 5pm Tue Sun, 10am 9pm Thur) Adm www.asianart.org ^San Francisco Museum of Craft and Design Established in 2004, this one of a kind museum, housed in an elegant building fronted by a charming courtyard, celebrates and promotes contemporary craft and design through innovative exhibitions moon valley justice court and educational programs. They organize lots of lectures, special events, and programs for children. There is also a great museum store with many original moon valley justice court pieces for sale. d 550 Sutter St Map P3 (415) 773- 0303 Open 10am 5pm Tue Sat, noon 5pm Sun Dis. access Adm www.sfmcd.com &Cable Car Museum This brick, warehouse like structure houses the nuts and bolts machinery that keeps the entire cable car system opera- ting. Don t miss a look down- stairs at the giant, spool like sheaves winding the fat cables round and round (see p11). *Mus e Mechanique and Holographic Museum A quaint, time warp experience awaits you here. As you approach the lower level, you ll be greeted by the loud guffaws of Laughing Sal, the enormous, buxom figure that is a relic of the old Playland at the Beach. There are also many other often ingenious mechanical devices that once crowded the arcade. Don t miss the re creation in miniature of a Chinese opium den. In addition, there is a small collection devoted to the art of holography. d Pier 45, Fisherman s Wharf Map A3 Open 11am 7pm Mon Fri, 10am 8pm Sat Sun (415) 346-2000

adriatic ship Ann Taylor Simplicity and comfortable fit are the keynotes of the women s clothing designed by Ann T

Ann Taylor adriatic ship Simplicity and comfortable fit are the keynotes of the women s clothing designed by Ann Taylor. Elegant suits, luxurious silk sweaters, linen casuals, or sporty khakis. d 3251 20th Ave, Stonestown Galleria (415) 564-0229

! Robert Birdman Stroud adriatic ship The most famous inmate was dubbed the Birdman , despite the fact that he was not permitted to conduct his avian studies during his 17 years here. Due to his violent nature Stroud spent most of those years in solitary.

Sales tax applies to restaurants, so 8.5 percent will be added to your total check. adriatic ship You should leave at least a 15 percent adriatic ship tip (see p135). You may add the tip to your credit card slip, or leave it in cash on the table.

Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 111 !Keur Baobab West-African rhythms in the heart of the Mission. Senegalese decor, featuring masks and low tables, and cocktails made with fresh ginger and exotic juices. d 3388 19th St Map F5 (415) 826-9287 @Make-Out Room Cool live music provided by local up-and-comers and DJ nights adriatic ship make this a Mission favorite. The decor is original, the drinks are cheap, and the staff is appropriately witty. d 3225 22nd St at Mission Map F5 (415) 647-2888 Caf Something and somebody for everybody here at this camp, cruisy Castro old-timer that attracts gays, lesbians, and straights in equal doses. The outdoor balcony is great for people-watching. d 2367 Market St at Castro Map E5 (415) 861-3846 $AsiaSF Brazen Asian drag queens are your waitresses, who also perform bar-top numbers. The tropical cock tails glow in the dark. DJ disco- dancing downstairs. d 201 9th St at Howard Map G4 (415) 255-2742 %The Endup Formerly exclusively gay, as famously featured in Tales of the City (see p52), this classic is now thoroughly mixed, featuring house music, and an all-day Sunday T Dance. d 401 6th St at Harrison Map R4 (415) 357-0827 Nightclubs Left Ten 15 Folsom Right Make-Out Room Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 111 !Keur Baobab West-African rhythms in the heart of the Mission. Senegalese decor, featuring masks and low tables, and cocktails made with fresh ginger and exotic juices. d 3388 19th St Map F5 (415) 826-9287 @Make-Out adriatic ship Room Cool live music provided by local up-and-comers and DJ nights make this a Mission favorite. The decor is original, the drinks are cheap, and the staff is appropriately witty. d 3225 22nd St at Mission Map F5 (415) 647-2888 Caf Something and somebody for everybody here at this camp, cruisy Castro old-timer that attracts gays, lesbians, and straights in equal doses. The outdoor adriatic ship balcony is great for people-watching. d 2367 Market St at Castro Map E5 (415) 861-3846 $AsiaSF Brazen Asian drag queens are your waitresses, who also perform adriatic ship bar-top numbers. The tropical cock tails glow in the dark. DJ disco- adriatic ship dancing downstairs. d 201 9th St at Howard Map G4 (415) 255-2742 %The Endup Formerly exclusively gay, as famously featured in Tales of the City (see p52), this classic is now thoroughly mixed, featuring house music, and an all-day Sunday T Dance. d 401 6th St at Harrison Map R4 (415) 357-0827 Nightclubs Left Ten 15 Folsom Right Make-Out Room ^The Stud Bar Around for over 35 years, this formerly exclusive enclave of maleness is now popular with anybody who likes a rollicking lusty time. Theme nights include Trannyshack, a fabulous drag cabaret show. d 399 9th St at Harrison Map G4 (415) 863-6623

montague lake San Francisco s Top 10op The best viewing spots for the Independence Day fireworks areThe best viewi

1114 Oceanfront Left Legion of Honor Right Cliff House Around Town Oceanfront AS WITH EVERY SEGMENT OF THIS CITY, the area that faces the PacificYY Ocean is a study in contrasts. Surprisingly to many, it contains terrains of natural beauty montague lake that are just as untamed and craggy as they always montague lake have been, particularly the rocky, montague lake windswept micro-climates that make up the cliffs and hidden ravines of Land s End. This has been the scene of innumerable shipwrecks throughout the city s history. Yet, just a few blocks away is Sea Cliff, one of the most exclusive residential neighborhoods in town. All up and down the area, beside blocks and blocks of tract homes, there are numerous parks and recreational possibilities, including, of course, surfing, if you re skilled and brave enough to face the unpredic table, freezing waters of the Pacific. Of all San Francisco s areas, this is the place where you re almost certain to encounter montague lake the city s infamous fog, but if the weather is clear there are great views of the offshore Seal Rocks and even the Farallon montague lake Islands. Further south, more activities can be enjoyed at Lake Merced. Koala, San Francisco Zoo 1114 Oceanfront Left Legion of Honor Right Cliff House Around Town Oceanfront AS WITH EVERY SEGMENT OF THIS CITY, the area that faces the PacificYY Ocean is a study in contrasts. Surprisingly to many, it contains terrains of natural beauty that are just as untamed and craggy as they always have been, particularly the rocky, windswept micro-climates that make up the cliffs and hidden ravines montague lake of Land s End. This has been the scene of innumerable shipwrecks throughout the city s history. Yet, just a few blocks away is Sea Cliff, one of the most exclusive residential neighborhoods in town. All up and down the area, beside blocks and blocks of tract homes, there are numerous parks and recreational possibilities, including, of course, surfing, if you re skilled and brave enough to face the unpredic table, freezing waters of the Pacific. Of all San Francisco s areas, this is the place where you re almost certain to encounter the city s infamous fog, but if the weather is clear there are great views of the offshore Seal Rocks and even the Farallon Islands. Further south, more activities montague lake can be enjoyed montague lake at Lake Merced. Koala, San Francisco Zoo

San Francisco s Top 10op The best viewing spots for the Independence Day fireworks areThe best viewing spots for the Independence Day fireworks areThe best viewing spots for the Independence Day fireworks montague lake areTh b t i i t f th I d d D fi k Crissy Field or from Telegraph Hill but expect large crowds.ssy eg ap pe geCrissy Field or from Telegraph Hill but expect large crowdsCrissy Field or from Telegraph Hill but expect montague lake large crowds

things to do in puerto morelos San Francisco s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places of Worship !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown

111 Minna Gallery Art gallery by day and rave scene by night. Devotees call this the coolest place in town, with top DJs who mix everything things to do in puerto morelos from garage to world beat. d 111 Minna St between New Montgomery & 2nd Map P5 (415) 462-0505

San Francisco things to do in puerto morelos s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places things to do in puerto morelos of Worship !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown s temples is dedicated to Kuan Di, a male deity (see pp18 19). @Tin How Temple The Queen of Heaven rules this sanctuary and makes sure devotees travel safely by water, among other things (see pp18 19). #Temple Sherith Israel Founded in 1849 by Jewish pioneers, the present domed synagogue dates from 1904. d 2266 California St Map F3 Services: 6pm Fri, 10:30am Sat Free $Vedanta Temple This was the first Hindu Temple (1905) in the western US. d 2963 Webster St Map E2 Free %Zen Center Home to the city s Zen practitioners. Beginners are welcome. d 300 Page St Map F4 ^Crystal Way Healing through things to do in puerto morelos crystals, light, sound, and positive thinking are explored here. d 2335 Market St Map F5 &Botanica Yoruba All the Santeria parapher- nalia you ll need (see p110). *Psychic Eye Book Shop A panoply of exotic gods and goddesses. d 301 Fell St Map F4 (The Love of Ganesha Hindu clothing, arts, and crafts. d 1601A Page St Map E4 )Open Secret The backroom of this New Age venue is like a temple to all the world s deities. d 923 C St, San Rafael Hwy 1 San Francisco s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places of Worship !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown s temples is dedicated to Kuan Di, a male deity (see pp18 19). @Tin How Temple The Queen of Heaven things to do in puerto morelos rules this sanctuary and makes sure devotees travel safely by water, among other things (see pp18 19). #Temple Sherith Israel Founded in 1849 by Jewish pioneers, the present domed synagogue dates from 1904. d 2266 California St Map F3 Services: 6pm Fri, 10:30am Sat Free $Vedanta Temple This was the first Hindu Temple (1905) in the western US. d 2963 Webster St Map E2 Free %Zen Center Home to the city s Zen practitioners. Beginners are welcome. d 300 Page St Map F4 ^Crystal Way Healing through crystals, light, sound, and positive thinking are explored here. d 2335 Market St Map F5 &Botanica Yoruba All the Santeria parapher- nalia you ll need (see p110). *Psychic Eye Book Shop A panoply of exotic gods and goddesses. d 301 Fell St Map F4 (The Love of Ganesha Hindu clothing, arts, and crafts. d 1601A Page St Map E4 )Open Secret The backroom of this New Age venue is like a temple to all the world s deities. things to do in puerto morelos d 923 C St, San Rafael Hwy 1 *St. Patrick s Cathedral Constructed things to do in puerto morelos in 1872, this Gothic Revival things to do in puerto morelos cathedral has an impressive marble and stained glass interior. d 756 Mission things to do in puerto morelos St Map Q4 (415) 421-3730 Services: 7am, 8am, 12:10pm, 5:15pm things to do in puerto morelos Mon Sat; 7:30am, 9am, 10:30am, 12:15pm, 5:15pm Sun Free www.st-patrick.org

There are 12 buses every 24 hours from Los Angeles to San Francisco and vice versa. It takes 8 12 hours but is the cheapest option. Greyhounds things to do in puerto morelos also go all over the US, but, although low in dollars, you pay in time, and discomfort.

patricia montague Curran Theater Built in 1922, this is one of the grandest theaters in the city and a Registered Nati

Sales tax applies to restaurants, so 8.5 percent will be added to your total check. You should leave at least a 15 percent tip (see p135). You may add the tip to your credit card slip, or leave it in cash on the table.

Curran Theater Built in 1922, this is one of the grandest theaters in the city and a Registered National Historic Landmark. patricia montague The interior is a fantasy of gold and carved wood, complemented by a vast chandelier and murals. Shows tend toward long-running Broad way hits. d 445 Geary St Map P3 (415) 551-2000 www.shnsf.com

^Wells Fargo Stagecoaches of Wells Fargo & Co began carrying freight and passengers in 1852, taking full advantage patricia montague of the momentum patricia montague set up by the Gold Rush. It was also instrumental in the development of the Pony Express (see p41).

The Bay Area Rapid Transit patricia montague system (BART) serves a large arc of San Francisco and connects it efficiently with the East Bay. There are also plans to extend it to San Francisco International Airport (see p133). BART stations are underground and many are shared with Muni Metro stops. d (415) 989-2278 www.bart.gov

montague james 994 Around Town The North Shoreline For information on the full range of events offered at the FortF

It would be difficult to think of an authentic national cuisine that is not represented by at least one restaurant in the city. That includes Tibetan, Eritrean, Afghan, Kurdish, and Bolivian, as well as the more standard Thai, Vietnamese, Russian, and most European countries.

San Francisco s Top 10op 71 ^330 Ritch Street Located off Townsend in this thriving SoMa area, 330 Ritch Street montague james has been hosting events, montague james receptions and club nights for over a decade. Known for its underground appeal, people flock to this venue for its various musical genres. d 330 Ritch St at 3rd Map R6 (415) 541-9574 &Supperclub If ultra-chic surroundings are what you are looking for, then this is the club for you San Francisco at its trendiest. The crowd it attracts is young and sexy, and the lighting and music are techno-cool. A unique feature is the beds, which just add to the laidback stylishness of the place. Whether it s an unusual dining experience or just dancing you are after, this is the place to come. The cover charge is pricey but worth it. d 657 Harrison St Map Q6 (415) 348- 0900 *Milk Bar The only true dance club in the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood. Fabulous music and a great crowd. The dance floor may be a bit small, but that just adds to the atmosphere. Don t miss the 80s night on Fridays or the Reggae night on Tuesdays. d 1840 Haight St between Shrader & Stanyan Map D4 (415) 387-6455 (Metronome Ballroom montague james This bright Potrero Hill hall is all about dancing dancing lessons, to be precise. Come to master the steps of the cha-cha- cha, the foxtrot, the Lindy hop, salsa, the tango, the waltz, the merengue, even break-dancing. d 1830 17th St between De Haro & Rhode Island Map G4 (415) 252-9000 )Tonga Room This Nob Hill tiki bar is almost Disneyesque in its tropical effects, including indoor monsoons and a floating band. Aimed at grown- ups of every age, it delivers kitschy Polynesian dazzlement, and is often chosen montague james as the venue for birthday celebrations. Weekday award-winning montague james Happy Hour (5 7pm) includes an Asian buffet at nominal cost. d Fairmont Hotel, montague james 950 Mason St Map N3 (415) 772-5278 Pink San Francisco s Top 10op 71 ^330 Ritch Street Located off Townsend in this thriving SoMa area, 330 Ritch Street has been hosting events, receptions and club nights for over a decade. Known for its underground appeal, people flock to this venue for its various musical genres. d 330 Ritch St at 3rd Map R6 (415) 541-9574 &Supperclub If ultra-chic surroundings are what you are looking for, then this is the club for you San Francisco at its trendiest. The crowd it attracts is young and sexy, and the lighting and music are techno-cool. A unique feature is the beds, which just add to the laidback stylishness of the place. Whether it s an unusual dining experience or just dancing montague james you are after, this is the place to come. The cover charge is pricey but worth it. d 657 Harrison St Map Q6 (415) 348- 0900 *Milk Bar The only true dance club in the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood. Fabulous music and a great crowd. The dance floor may be a bit small, but that just adds to the atmosphere. Don t miss the 80s night on Fridays or the Reggae night on Tuesdays. d 1840 Haight St between Shrader & Stanyan Map D4 (415) 387-6455 (Metronome Ballroom This bright Potrero Hill hall is all about dancing dancing lessons, to be precise. Come to master the steps of the cha-cha- cha, the foxtrot, the Lindy hop, salsa, the tango, the waltz, the merengue, even break-dancing. d 1830 17th St between De Haro & Rhode Island Map G4 (415) 252-9000 )Tonga Room This Nob Hill tiki bar is almost Disneyesque in its tropical effects, including indoor monsoons and a floating band. Aimed at grown- ups of every age, it delivers kitschy montague james Polynesian dazzlement, and is often chosen as the venue for birthday celebrations. Weekday award-winning Happy Hour (5 7pm) includes an Asian buffet at nominal cost. d Fairmont Hotel, 950 Mason St Map N3 (415) 772-5278 Pink

994 Around Town The North Shoreline For information on the full range of events offered at the FortFor information on the full range of events offered at the FortFor information on the full range of events offered at the FortF i f ti th f ll f t ff d t th F t Mason Center during your visit, go to www.fortmason.orggy ,g gMason Center during your visit go to www fortmason org Mason Center during your visit go to www fortmason org View of the Marina District ^Fort Mason Center Formerly a military base established during the Civil War, some of the army buildings have been devoted to cultural programs of all kinds since 1976. Some 50 organizations now call it home, including museums, art galleries, theaters, shops, festivals, fairs, and performance spaces, as well as libraries and various institutes. Some of the most prominent are the Museum of Craft and Folk Art and the Museo Italo- Americano (see p42), the San Francisco African American Historical and Cultural Society, the Children s Art Theater, the Magic Theater (see p57), and Herbst montague james Pavilion. The city s finest vegetarian restaurant, Greens, is also located here, enjoying unique views of the Bay and Golden Gate (see p97). d Map F1 &Marina District This is a pleasant, upmarket zone, featuring bars and trendy boutiques along Chestnut Street. Marina Green is a vast lawn where locals montague james love to jog, skate, fly kites, picnic, or walk their dogs. At the tip of the break- water that protects the Marina, you can tune in to the bizarre sounds of the Wave Organ, an instrumental structure of underwater pipes through which the tides slosh in a vaguely montague james musical fashion. d Map E1 *Palace of Fine Arts and the Exploratorium The sole survivor with a lot of help from restorers montague james of the many fantasy monuments built for the 1915 Panama Pacific montague james Exposition, the Neo Classical Palace was an Expo center- piece. The dome of the rotunda is supported by a Classical frieze and an octagonal arcade, which is set off by a landscaped lagoon and flanked by an open peristyle of Corinthian columns (see p46). Behind it is the Exploratorium, one of the world s first hands on science museums. It boasts more than 650 exhibits, divided into 13 subject areas, such as Electricity, Motion, Weather, Vision, Color and Light, and Sound (see p58). d 3601 Lyon St Map E 1 (415) EXP-LORE; general info. (415) 561-0360 Open 10am 5pm Tue Sun Adm www.exploratorium.edu (Crissy Field Originally marshland and dunes, the field was filled in for the 1915 Pan Pacific Exposition and paved over entirely for use as an airfield by the army from 1919 36. With the establishment 994 Around Town The North Shoreline For information on the full range of events offered at the FortFor information on the full range of events offered at the FortFor information on the full range of events offered at the FortF i f ti th f ll f t ff d t th F t Mason Center during your visit, go to www.fortmason.orggy ,g gMason Center during your visit go to www fortmason org Mason Center during your visit go to www fortmason org View of the Marina District ^Fort Mason Center Formerly a military base established during the Civil War, some of the army buildings have been devoted to cultural programs of all kinds since 1976. Some 50 organizations montague james now call it home, including museums, art galleries, theaters, shops, festivals, fairs, and performance spaces, montague james as well as libraries and various institutes. Some of the most prominent are the Museum of Craft and Folk Art and the Museo Italo- Americano (see p42), the San Francisco African American Historical and Cultural Society, the Children s Art Theater, the Magic Theater (see p57), and Herbst Pavilion. The city s finest vegetarian restaurant, Greens, is also located here, enjoying unique views of the Bay and Golden Gate (see p97). d Map F1 &Marina District This is a pleasant, upmarket zone, featuring bars and trendy boutiques along Chestnut Street. montague james Marina Green is a vast lawn where locals love to jog, skate, fly kites, picnic, or walk their dogs. At the tip of the break- water that protects the Marina, you can tune in to the bizarre sounds of the Wave Organ, an instrumental structure of underwater pipes through which the tides slosh in a vaguely musical fashion. d Map E1 *Palace of Fine Arts and the Exploratorium The sole survivor with a lot of help from restorers of the many fantasy monuments built for the 1915 Panama Pacific Exposition, the Neo Classical Palace was an Expo center- piece. The dome of the rotunda is supported by a Classical frieze and an octagonal arcade, which is set off by a landscaped lagoon and flanked by an open peristyle of Corinthian columns (see p46). Behind it is the Exploratorium, one of the world s first hands on science museums. It boasts more than 650 exhibits, divided into 13 subject montague james areas, such as Electricity, Motion, Weather, Vision, Color and Light, and Sound (see p58). d 3601 Lyon St Map E 1 (415) EXP-LORE; general info. (415) 561-0360 Open 10am 5pm Tue Sun Adm www.exploratorium.edu (Crissy Field Originally marshland and dunes, the field was filled in for the 1915 Pan Pacific Exposition and paved over entirely for use as an airfield by the army from 1919 36. With the establishment

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