montague on the green Steps of Rome One of the many Italian caf s often full of real Italians lined up along this stretch

Brainwash Caf , bar, performance space, and, yes, laundromat, it s got everything the young apart ment dwellers who live in this industrial SoMa neighborhood need. Frequented by lesbians, gays, and straights in short, typical San Franciscans of the edgier sort. There s also a menu composed of solid international standards, such as a great cobb salad, tofu stir-fry, and chicken quesadilla. d 1122 Folsom St at 7th Map R3 (415) 861-3663 Dis. access

Steps of Rome One of the many Italian caf s often full of real Italians lined up along this stretch of Columbus. This one features large windows, usually open, with clientele spilling out onto the sidewalk to eye the stream of passers-by. Good coffee and desserts make it an appealing pit stop until closing time at 2am. d 348 Columbus Ave between Broadway & Vallejo Map M4 (415) 397-0435

! Wine Country Taking at least a day to drive up into the Napa-Sonoma hill country should be on everyone s list. Not only is the countryside beautiful, but you can also sample some of the best wines in the world, and dip into the restorative volcanic hot springs montague on the green that feed the area (see pp32 5).